Wednesday, 9 October 2013

Story of Forbidden City (1): Beijing during the Ming and Qing Dynasties



The Forbidden City, which is located in the heart of Beijing, was constructed during the beginning of the Ming Dynasty.  The city of Beijing, which has such a rich history, grew and prospered under the Ming and Qing Dynasties, and remained a national capital to the present day. But how did “Beijing” become the capital of the Ming and Qing dynasties? And how was it different from today?
The two Chinese characters in the name Beijing (北京) literally mean “Northern Capital”.  The name was first given as a reference to the newly-built royal settlement in 1406, opposite the existing capital of the Ming Dynasty in Nanjing (南京Southern Capital). Beijing, because of the many different dialects and the romanization of Chinese, was referred to as “Peking”.  Examples of this can be found in references such as “the Peking Man”, Homo erectus fossils found around the outskirt of Beijing near the village of Zhoukoudian in the 1920-30s.
Before royal palaces were built for Ming rulers, Beijing was used as a secondary capital, or “South Capital” (aka Yanjing 燕京), during the Jin Dynasty (1115 - 1234). When Jin successfully defeated the Liao Dynasty in 1153, extending Jin’s territory southward, Beijing became the Central Capital (Zongdu) of Jin. In 1213, Genghis Khan’s army besieged the city and razed it to the ground two years later. Ironically, Genghis Khan’s grandson, Kublai Khan, established the Yuan Dynasty after conquering the lands of China and beyond, and ordered his capital to be located adjacent to the Jin Ruin. The capital was then called Dadu (or commonly known to Mongols as Khanbaliq (Daidu)). The construction of the capital, including royal palaces, took place from 1264 – 1293. Unlike Jin’s Yanjing, Yuan’s Dadu had extended to the downtown areas of what is known today as Beijing. 
In 1368, soon after Zhu Yuanzhang(朱元璋)(Hongwu Emperor) founded the Ming Dynasty (1368 – 1644), he sent an army to Beijing and burnt the Yuan capital to the ground. Since Yuan continued to occupy parts of the northern frontiers of China, this city was used as Ming’s military garrisons and was governed by the 4th son of Hongwu Emperor, Zhu Di, also known as “Prince of Yan”.
When his brother, the second Ming emperor, attempted to challenge his military power, the Prince of Yan carried out a brutal plot that ultimately led to his ascension to the throne.  In 1403 Zhu Di became the third emperor of the Ming Dynasty, sworn to the throne in Nanjing, Ming’s Capital in the South. Three years later, Zhu Di ambitiously decided to relocate his primary residence and administrative center to Beijing.  The construction of the Forbidden City went on for a painfully long time - from 1406 to 1420 - eventually remaining as a capital city for the next  500 plus years.  During this time other major landmarks of the city were also built, such as the Temple of Heaven, in accordance with the city layout.


(Figure 1)
The Chinese character for “city” (or cheng) can be found in ancient pictographic writing as early as 3000 years ago. In ancient China city planning was regulated for more than two thousand years (figure 1).  Depicted in this map is an enclosure complex with a square wall and gates. Walls and gates functioned as primary features, especially gates that were linked by major gateways throughout cities that made into a grid system. Because the ancient city walls of Beijing were torn down completely in the 1950s, the best preserved example of a Ming Dynasty city is the reconstructed city of Xi’an, which is a popular tourist destination today.
Another key feature of ancient Chinese city planning is the separation of an inner city (residences of royal and noble families and administration), and an outer city (commoner’s residences and markets).  Constructing inner and outer cities have been well established traditions since the Warring State period (481 – 211 BC). Beijing was the home of royal families and the center of state administration, thus was constructed with four enclosures, a unique form of city-within-city during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. From its core outwards, it is divided into the Palace City (commonly known as the Forbidden City), Royal City, Inner City, and Outer City.
Within the city of Beijing each “city” was separated by walls and gates. Another feature of ancient Chinese cities, also seen in today’s Xi’an, is the axis line and symmetric layout of the buildings. In Beijing, from the center of the Forbidden City, the Hall of Supreme Harmony, and the North-South city, the axis extends outside and along the city’s primary gateway (also called the Royal Gateway), where some gates were built grander than others. In the Qing Dynasty, if a foreign diplomat came and was to be met by an Emperor, he would enter from the south side of the outer city. Before the visitor reached the Meridian Gate, the south gate to the Forbidden City, the envoy would go through five gates along the axial gateway, which was around 5 kilometers; they would have to pass through the Guanganmen Gate (the outer city),  Zhengyangmen Gate (the inner city), Daqingmen Gate (center of the inner city), Tian'anmen Gate (Gate of Heavenly Peace – the royal City), and Duanmen Gate (royal gateway to the Forbidden City).
The Forbidden City
Since 1420 the Forbidden City has been home to 24 emperors – 14 Ming Dynasty and 10 Qing Dynasty.  It was meticulously designed and built with purpose, while functioning not only as a residence, but as a place of imperial power and administration, thus dividing the outer court and the inner court.  The Forbidden City ceased being the political centre of China in 1912 after the 1911 revolution. The outer court was converted over to public use by the Republic of China, while the inner court was the home of the last emperor Aisin-Gioro Fu Yi until 1924.
The Forbidden City took over one million laborers to complete over a period of 14 years. The enclosure of the city scale was established first (walls and gates) as well as the six primary buildings on a center platform, three in the outer court and three in the inner court. Others were built and rebuilt gradually over time.  The present day layout probably retains what it looked like during the reign of Emperor Qianlong (1735 – 1799). It includes nearly 90 palace complexes, 980 buildings, and about 9000 rooms.
The walls of the Forbidden City are rectangular with right angles at the four corners. The city is about 961 meters North-South, and 753 meters East-West (thus 720,000 square meters, and 780,000 square meters when adding the areas of the gateways between the Meridian Gate and Gate of Heavenly Peace). The wall is about 10 meters high, with a base width of 8.62 meters. The top of the wall has a width of 6.66 meters that can allow up to 5 horses to stand side by side for patrolling.
Outside of the wall is a 52 meter wide moat, a defensive feature for the ancient city. During the Qing Dynasty, about 700 rooms were built on the inside bank of the moat, against the walls on the East, West, and North, which were used for housing imperial guards. The water of the moat was channeled in from the Yuquanshan Mountain in the western city, through the northwest end of the palaces and out the southeast side of the city. The name of the bridge is called “Gold Water” after the natural-flowing golden water located in front of the Hall of Supreme Harmony. During the reign of Kangxi (1661 – 1722), the moat was used for growing lotus flowers. Bountiful lotus roots were consumed in the Forbidden City, and also sold to the markets providing revenue for the palace. There are four corner towers, which traditionally functioned as defensive watch towers, and they are now just beautifully designed and decorative building structures.
The Forbidden City has four gates, one on each side. The North Gate (shenwumen) and South Gate (Meridian Gate) are on the axial line, while the East Gate and West Gate are in opposite positions, but towards the southern end. The East Gate, open primarily for officials coming into the Palace, was where visiting carriages and horses were parked. Only honoured guests of the emperor were allowed to enter the Forbidden City riding horses. The East Gate was also reserved for carrying coffins of emperors or his family members. The West Gate was reserved for emperors and their families traveling back and forth to and from the Summer Palaces.
The North Gate was used for common daily traffic and functions, such as the comings and goings of guards, eunuchs, and servants. At one time there was a bell and drum tower located on top of the gate to provide hourly indications.
The formal South Gate or Meridian Gate is considered to be a much grander gate, which was used for major events and ceremonies. The central gateway of the five was reserved for the emperor himself; the only exception was for newly wedded empresses and the top three scorers of the Imperial Civic Official Examinations. Next to the central gateway, the left one was reserved for government functionaries while the right was for imperial and noble families. The far left and right gateways were only open for officials when grand ceremonies were held inside, allowing up to ten-thousand individuals to go through, military officials on the west and civic dignitaries on the east.
The Meridian Gate was so grand that it was also used for announcing the emperor’s edicts in major events. Emperors used to meet and receive officials here on the 5th, 15th, and 25th day of each month. This was also where emperors would watch their high-ranked bureaucrats being punished and/or humiliated for any wrongdoings or crimes.
The Imperial (Royal) City
The area located between the Meridian Gate and the Gate of Heavenly Peace is part of the Imperial City, and the walls that encircle the Forbidden City are around 11 km in length. The Gate of Heavenly Peace is the grand South Gate (today an iconic landmark of Beijing). There is one gate on each of the other three sides: di'anmen (Gate of Earthly Peace) to the north, dong'anmen (Gate of Eastern Peace) to the east, and xi'anmen (Gate of West Peace) to the west.
Most of the Imperial City was taken up by royal garden/lakes, temples/altars, garrisons/supplies, and workshops, which were all meant for servicing royal and noble families. Located within the Imperial City were the Mansions of Princes and Princesses, who were relocated within the royal city after being wed.  It was also the location of the central government administration offices during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Especially in the Qing Dynasty, where most divisions of the Imperial Household Department set up offices, close to the Forbidden City. No commoners were allowed to live in the Imperial City.
To the west of the Forbidden City were interconnected lakes (called “South Sea”, “Center Sea” and “North Sea” in common names), along which were the closest resorts for the emperor’s families outside the Palaces. Empress Dowager Ci Xi and her adopted son, Emperor Guang Xu, died in Yingtai Palace at the South-Center Seas. The complexes of the South-Center Sea today are off limits – they are the headquarters of the Chinese Communist Party and Government administrations.
To the north of the Forbidden City is the largest royal garden, known as Jinshan Mount Park, it was the highest point of view in Beijing during the Ming and Qing Dynasties. Today, from the top you can view a multitude of yellow roofs and red walls from the Forbidden City below.  In 1644, the last Ming emperor Chongzheng committed suicide on Jinshan Mount; he hung himself from a tree when Li Zhicheng’s peasant army captured the city of Beijing. 
The two most notable royal complexes located just south of the Forbidden City, are the State Altar and the Temple of Ancestors. The State Altar, which is for worshipping nature (animals and plants), is located in the west area of the royal gateway (between the Meridian Gate and the Gate of Heavenly Peace). The Temple of Ancestors, where the previous emperor’s spiritual name-tablets were worshipped, is a square complex of the same scale to the east of the royal gateway.
The Inner City
f you have ever taken the No.2 subway line (Figure 2) in Beijing recently, you will find that the loop line has many stations ending with “-men” (“gate” in Chinese). There are 11 stations with “-men” in the name. This subway route follows the exact line of the inner city wall built during the Ming Dynasty. In the 1950s two of the new gates, jiangguomen and fuxingmen, were built and then soon afterwards torn down.  The other nine stations were built on the original locations of the gates, three on each side in symmetrical and opposite placements – a reflection of the Chinese ancient city layout. Today for tourist purposes, only two gates have been reconstructed in the Ming style, Qianmen located in Center South, and Deshengmen situated in Center North.





 (Figure 2)
 
South of the Gate of Heavenly Peace is today’s famous Tian'anmen Square. All aspects of government affairs, both residential and commercial, would have taken place in the Inner City, which was once filled with Qing Dynasty government buildings and rooms.  However, these buildings were all demolished in 1915.
The mansions of many high ranking officials and Princes were located in the northern part of the Inner City.  Yonghegong Temple subway station, located at the northeast corner of the loopline, was at one time the residential mansion of Prince Yong before he became Emperor Yongzheng in 1722. After Emperor Yongzheng moved to the Forbidden City, the mansion became the Tibetan Buddhist temple for the royal family.
Across the street from the Yonghe Temple is the laneway housing government buildings dedicated to education and scholarship. Today, preserved as cultural heritage sites are the complexes for the Ministry of Education, State College, and the Temple of Confucians.
The Outer City
The Outer City was a 2.5 km extension to the Inner City. The 18 km-long wall that enclosed this extension was built during the reign of the Ming Emperor Jiajing (1521-1567) to house city residences of all kinds. But due to a financial shortage, only phase one of the project was ever completed.  During the rule of Jiajing, for some unknown reasons, the outer city wall and gates have never been extended to the other three sides of the Inner City. The Outer City had seven gates, three at the south, and two each on the east and the west sides.
The Outer City was where most of the activities happened it was the location where skilled craftsmens and mobile traders gathered, this was the area where you could experience the most vivid life of ancient Beijing. The well-known components in this part of Beijing were the Qianmen markets south of the Qianmen Gate (South-Central Gate of the Inner City), and the Tianqiao entertainment quarters in the south near the Yongdingmen (South-Central Gate of the Outer City). Today, both places are popular tourist attractions because they still reveal the traditions of ancient Beijing.
It must be noted that just inside the Yongdingmen South-Center Gate is a giant royal temple complex, sitting to the east of the Imperial City’s axial gateway. It is the Temple of Heaven, or Altar of Heaven, where emperors went to worship the heavenly emperors or gods (emperors were the sons of Heaven in China). Opposite the Temple of Heaven was the Altar of Agriculture, where the emperors went at the beginning of spring to pray for a prosperous harvest by participating in the spring cultivation. A wall of the palace where the emperor changed his clothes to dress up like a peasant has been replicated and is on display in the ROM’s Chinese Architecture Gallery.
Corresponding to Altar of Heaven, there are three other altars symmetrically located on each side just outside the Inner City. They are Altar of Earth in the North, Altar of Sun in the East, and Altar of Moon in the west. 
The Final Remarks
The Ancient city of Beijing during the Ming and Qing Dynasties refers to a combination of a square Inner City and a rectangular Outer City to the south.
Before the Forbidden City was built, Beijing had a population of around 100,000, but after the Ming capital was moved it increased to roughly 800,000 by 1425. In 1621 (close to the end of the Ming Dynasty) Beijing’s population may have reached as much as 1.2 million. It was said that Beijing was the largest city in the world during the 15th – 17th centuries.

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